Precisely at the midway point of the maintenance objective, I visited the Apollon site on Saturday (Sept 11) to observe proceedings, writes Glenn Maffia. Only to find a complete absence of any archaeologists in situ!
Not a faint echo
Needless to say, I was somewhat perplexed. Not even a sign of the stone grinder under his protective laurel tree could be found, nor even a faint echo from his hammer upon the limestone slab of rock.
I had been hoping to catch a word or two with any of the archaeologists on the progress they are making. But, alas, not a single soul was to be found. One can only surmise the maintenance itinerary is on a steady course and they, at this halfway point, were given an extra day off out of the persistent sun! Yet, Sunday is normally allocated to leisure time.
Personally, I’d be inclined to continue to explore the site if, as word persists, this is to be their final chance to do so, at least in their professional capacity. Though, mine is not to reason why.
We shall dig
On that point, not yet quite validated, this is to be the final year of the tenure of the German Archaeological Institute (GAI) I would so ardently desire to see a period of mutual cooperation where the German and Turkish teams exchange information.
The GAI has had a lengthy and fruitful occupancy in which they have built a wealth of knowledge and understanding of the extensive site and its surroundings. That inherited experience reaches back to 1906 when Theodor Wiegand relieved the crude excavations of a French team (they used dynamite to clear the rubble which then filled the Adyton) and began a professional expedition, sarcastically armed with a ‘made in France’ trowel, “We shall dig with their tools, not explode bombs”.
I believe most people who have shown an avid interest in the Temple of Apollo should concede that 125 years is certainly an impressively long time. Consider the rapidity of the acquisition and use of ever incredible technology during that period then much has been achieved within that timeframe.
If it, indeed, pans out that a Turkish team will now take up the reins from this point, then they would do well to try to emulate the various German Directors of Excavation. Though, with a more public open policy where local people can learn of ambitions and aims while being fully fed by news from the site. That issue has been one of many problems, which appear to be draped in a barely diaphanous veil of secrecy, in recent years.
But, back to now. The double columns seem to be at, or near, a point of completion, though it is difficult to truly tell from ground level. So, therefore, that leaves only the single incomplete column. Again, ascertaining the extent of the weathering from 19 metres below, is far from ideal.
How I would adore climbing those stairs to the summit of the columns, but I can never see that eventuality being afforded to me.
If only the archaeologists had a glimmer of engaging the public they would, I’m sure, be conducting a controlled tour for those with an interest, while the scaffolding remains in place.