This week we visit Ayvalık, a place which has a unique atmosphere in the north of the Aegean Region. It is ideal for a short two-day getaway.
Ayvalık is a district of Balıkesir, but it is a small place that we can call a town. So much so that by visiting Cunda one day and staying there, and visiting Ayvalık the second day, you will see all the places to see.
Cunda is a small island connected to Ayvalık. It has a calm and pleasant atmosphere. I will write the places to visit by dividing them into two Cunda and Ayvalık:
Places to visit in Cunda
It was a Greek settlement in the time of Cunda, and as with all Greek settlements in the Aegean Region, the fate of this place changed at the time of population exchange; Greeks here were settled in Greece, and Turks there were settled here.
However, Cunda and Ayvalık are the places in the Aegean region that bear the most Greek traces. Both the home architecture of the Greeks was preserved and the Turks who came with the exchange brought many flavours from the cuisine of the region here. These two are the main elements of a Cunda tour: buildings and food.
Agios Yannis Church or Sevim and Necdet Kent Library Museum
You should see the windmills, the symbol of the island, and visit the Church of Agios Yannis on the summit of the island. You can go up both on foot and by car, but walking is much more enjoyable.
The windmills and the church are in a reasonably small area. Today, the church is open to visitors until 17.30 under the name of Sevim ve Necdet Kent Library. Its address is Namık Kemal, 10400 Ayvalık. If you walk upstairs like me, the cafe in the garden of the museum will make you happy.
You will also see windmills above, but only one of them has been restored. You can go to the top floor by entering it and watch the view from here.
Agios Yannis Church
Taksiyarhis Church: This church, which has been standing since 1873, was restored in 2011 by the Koç Family, the owner of Turkey’s leading holding company. It was opened to the public as a museum in 2014. As in other museums of Koç Holding, collections are exhibited in different areas such as the antique car collection and toy collections. Address: Namık Kemal, Rahmi M. Koç Museum (Taksiyarhis Church), Şeref Sk. No: 6/A, 10405 Ayvalık.
Tarihi Taş Kahve (Historical Stone House Cafe): This is by the sea, the 150-year-old Taş Kahve. The neo-classical stone building with its stained glass windows and high ceiling with flying birds is the meeting point of everyone even today.
It has been used as a coffee house since its construction. But back then, it was by the sea, they tied a boat in front of it. Before the exchange, there were two grand pianos here, and the people of Cunda used to dance there. The cafe is famous for its mastic Turkish coffee, Ayvalık toast, sage, melon ice cream, and Tulum cheese omelette for breakfast. Its address is Cunda, Alibey Island, Sahil Boyu Sk. No:20, 10405 Ayvalık.
Ayışığı Manastırı (Moonlight Monastery): Let me start by saying that you have to have a lot of perseverance to get here. Since it is located in the farthest corner of the island, the only way to reach here is your personal vehicle. But the roads are really bad. For now, it’s only open on Tuesdays and Wednesdays until 15:00.
However, since it is an important monastery, I wanted to add it to the list. The monastery, dated to the 16th century, is one of the historical places left by the Greeks after the population exchange.
It was abandoned at the time because it was plundered by treasure hunters. It was purchased by Suzan Sabancı Dinçer, one of the owners of Sabancı Holding, in 2012, and restored to its final state in 1923 and reopened to visitors.
Moonlight Monastery
Despot’un Evi (Despot’s House): The building, dated 1862, is the mansion of an Orthodox clergyman, nicknamed Despot, who lived on Cunda Island. The despot was killed in a raid on his home by thieves in 1877, and everything valuable in his home is looted.
Later in the Ottoman period, the mansion was purchased by the Ottomans and used as a government building, and in the 1920s it was also used as an orphanage. After the population exchange, it functioned as a primary school and orphanage.
Recently, it has been restored and turned into a stylish hotel. Its address is Cunda Despot Evi, Cunda Island, Mithatpaşa mh. School St. N:2/2, 10400 Ayvalık.
Note for eating and drinking:
Prices in Cunda are generally expensive. But while you’re here, you can’t go back without tasting Cretan appetizers. I thought it would be better to give you a hint rather than suggesting the name of the restaurants: by visiting the restaurants, you can compare the appetizers and prices, and find out the fish prices in advance.
Places to visit in Ayvalık
Taksiyarhis Memorial Museum: Just like Cunda, the name of this church is Taksiyarhis. It is a common church name that abounds in Greece. Although it doesn’t look very special from the outside, you should see the inside. Its address is İsmetpaşa Mahallesi, Between, Marshal Fevzi Çakmak Cd. 11. Sk., 10400 Balikesir.
Clock Mosque: Another historical building that can be seen in the centre of Ayvalık is the Clock Mosque. This is actually the Agios Yannis (Agia Ianni) Church, which was built by the Greeks in 1850, but after the population exchange, it was converted into a mosque and the frescoes belonging to the Christian religion were also destroyed. When the bell tower of the church was turned into a clock tower, its name remained Saatli Mosque. The top of the bell tower was destroyed in the earthquake in 1944, but later repaired. Address: Fevzipaşa-vehbibey, Muradiye Çarşı Ar. No:4, 10400 Ayvalık.
Macaron District: You should definitely go to this neighbourhood, which makes you feel that most Greeks once lived here. This place is what makes Ayvalık unique. You will also find many nice cafes and shops here.
Macaron District
The name Macaron is not pronounced like a French dessert, you need “g” sound instead “k”. The name Macaron comes from a flower in Greek. Since the Greeks adorned the balconies of their houses with this flower, the name of the neighbourhood remained from there. Address Hayrettinpaşa, 13 Nisan Cd. 20. Sk., 10400 Ayvalık/Balıkesir.
Cafes I stop by in Macaron:
Macaron Muhallebicisi: You should go for the gummy and almond pudding. Hayrettinpasa, Barbaros Cd. no:108, 10400 Ayvalık/Balıkesir
Cafe Caramel: Ayvalık’s famous cafe with semolina dessert. It has two branches. The address in Macaron is Hayrettinpaşa, Barbaros Cd. 9. Sk. No 18/a, 10400 Ayvalık/Balıkesir
Mor Salkım: An ideal place for a lunch break with olive oil dishes. Hayrettinpasa, Barbaros Cd. No:112, 10400 Ayvalik/Balikesir
Pino: The healthy breakfast, artisanal pizza, sandwich and bagel spot.
Macaron Chocolate Coffee: You can go for delicious chocolate and coffee. Hayrettinpasa, Barbaros Cd. No:106, 10400 Ayvalık/Balıkesir.
Paleo: Cafe with delicious fresh desserts, and good coffee and tea alternatives. Zekibey, 13 Nisan Cd. No:51, 10400 Ayvalik/Balikesir
As you wander the neighbourhood, you will also come across other colourful cafes.
Şeytan Sofrası
Şeytan Sofrası: This is Ayvalık Adalar Nature Park, one of the most famous places in Ayvalık. It is Turkey’s largest nature park, covering 19 of the 22 islands of Ayvalık. It can be quite crowded in the evening, especially to watch the sunset. It really has a beautiful view that deserves its reputation. Its address is Küçükköy, 10400 Ayvalık.