By Glenn Maffia
I visited the Temple of Apollo again today, and I felt a distinct air of trepidation rising within me. I have never felt that upon previous visits. Something is perplexing me, and I cannot quite place my finger on this curious feeling of foreboding.
There remains an uncertainty surrounding the site as to its future prospects, indeed its existence in its pristine form. Who knows what machinations are being considered behind closed doors? Possibly, that was central to my anxiety, that gnawing feeling that something was out of place but one cannot fathom precisely what.
Usual ‘check-list’ of subjects
There was a smattering of people strolling around as always. I peered into the hollow to where the Temple resides noting fewer people clambering the structure’s marble stones, but that is to be expected at this time of year.
A tour bus pulled up at the café/bar where I was seated. They didn’t even enter the Temple precinct, they had refreshments, took the regulatory photographs over the perimeter fencing and just sat talking to one another for the best part of an hour.
Possibly these people were atypical of ‘check-list’ tourists; “been there, seen it, didn’t have a clue what it was about”. Ignorance and apathy do not co-join to ever make a heady mix.
If desire is present it is achievable
Naturally, my thoughts flowed towards the intentions espoused by Melih Koyuncu, the President of the Didim Tourism Association, and I could visualize how his innovative intent to enrich the area with cultural tourism would greatly benefit Yoran village.
The area could well become the intellectual focal point of the town, which is in dire need of something more stimulating than the ‘Tinky-Town’ sobriquet (playing on the Altınkum name) given by, certainly, British fun and sun hedonists. Fine, let them have their playground, glaring lights and too loud music.
The Temple of Apollo doesn’t need such glitz and glamour. It stands as an icon diametrically opposite to the ‘holiday mentality’ antics.
The hub of learning
Certainly the routes connecting the various archaeological sites of interest (most still interred in their shallow graves) emanate out from the ‘hub of the wheel’, the Temple, to encircle it.
Aptly, it would seem, as one of Apollo’s accoutrements was being a sun god; the centre of all, radiating out beams of light. I have named, explained and, in conjunction with Voices, produced a map indicating their precise locations many times previously, so I shall not repeat myself herein.
There remains, though, a slight dint in such an aspiration. Namely, the Preservation Order placed in 1976, which includes a number of the old village houses. Though, certainly the 97, as quoted by Deputy Mayor Emine Öznur Gündoğdu recently, sounds an exaggerated number.
I sought out some of these dilapidated village houses but due to lack of information was not entirely confident they were included on the Preservation Order. However, I haven’t noted any signs of ‘preservation’ in any of the abodes situated within the village vicinity. Dereliction, yes, plenty of it.
I have also witnessed many concrete structures, which is probably explained by them being constructed before the Preservation Order was imposed. Though my conclusion is that there is much ‘primary source’ material, across differing epochs, which could be utilised to realise a centre for cultural tourism and a place of learning within our midst, if not actually upon the immediate site.
Didim has grown out of the ramshackle, but adorable, small town into this megalith of sprawling concrete, where many fortunes have been made. The present shall soon flit by and be superseded by a new ‘New’. It is the irredeemable course of human history. Possibly, that was where my trepidation was originating.
In the meantime, it is possible to entwine the ‘ancient’ with the delicately ‘not so old’ while maintaining the quiet dignity and ambience of the area, except on festival days!