A step back in time: Reimagining Didyma’s Sacred Road

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By Jay Jean Jackson – Some 2,500 years ago, the annual spring festivities were starting. They’d taken place, and would continue to do so, for many centuries. The atmosphere around Miletus and Apollon Temple would have been buzzing like the crowds at the opening ceremony of the Olympic Games.

The sacred stones (Gyllos) are placed at the gates of Miletus and the doors of the Apollon Temple. They are covered with wreaths and doused with wine. The festivities are underway. It is a celebration to honour the Greek God Apollo, the God of music, dance and poetry, prophecy and oracles, archery, healing and disease. The Cult of Apollo has begun.

The celebrations begin at the Apollon Delphinium with singing, dancing, chanting, music, and drumbeats.

Sacrifices are made to honour the Gods. Holy songs (Paion) are sung as people arrive in Miletus from other cities and islands for the three-day celebrations. This is followed by a spiritual journey of ritual rites and artistic performances.

Sacrifices are offered to the Gods and heroes during a four-day 16.3 kilometre procession along the Sacred Way to the temple of Apollo. Upon arrival, athletic competitions of boxing, wrestling, and running take place, before the much-anticipated prophesies for the future are revealed by the oracle.

The journey is beautiful. It is the spring month of Tauren, in the Ancient Greek calendar and the procession has begun. The flora is in full bloom, highlighting the arrival of spring. The days are filled with birdsong.

The nights with the howling chorus of the Jackal and grunting of wild boar, as if they are too joining the festive atmosphere.

There are seven stops to be made. The first is in celebration of Hekate, the goddess worshipped as the protector of the city. After the rituals and sacrifices are made, the procession leaves the sacred gate of Miletus and soon arrives at the second stop, ‘Dynamis’, meaning power, to honour the Milesian magistrates.

The journey continues through the meadow of Clamour and grasslands with a steep climb across the Acron hills, meandering through the forest paths of oak trees (Drymos), where there is shade to sit and rest. After a rest, it continues its journey until it reaches the sanctuary of the Nymphs where the goddesses of nature are honoured.

There are resting places and shops along the route. The next stop is at the Terrace of Sphinxes where communal feasting, drinking and celebrations take place before the Pilgrims continue towards the monument to celebrate and honour Hermes, the messenger God who is also the protector of travellers. People stop at natural springs to quench their thirst as the temperatures rise.

The next stop is in honour of Phylios, the protector of the Milesian Tribes. The crowds have grown as many, especially the more affluent Milesians, have landed by boat at Panormos harbour to join the celebrations. Together they honour Apollo Phylios, the horned one. The feeling of apprehension and anticipation is growing as the crowds near the temple.

The last stop is Chares, where the Branchid priests are honoured. Statues of them line the streets leading to the second set of sacred stones.

The road is lined with stalls selling food and drinks to the travellers in the procession. There is even a main bathing area for pilgrims to clean themselves after the walk from Miletus before they enter the final stage of the festivities.

The crowds have arrived at Apollon Temple. Women seers greet the pilgrims. The winners from the games are awarded laurel wreaths and statues on the presentation terrace to the applause of the crowd.

Some people sit on the steps of the Temple playing backgammon and other games on boards carved into the stonework.

The atmosphere changes as the crowds hear the Oracle, having chewed laurel and drunk from the scared spring, is now in a trance. The Priests (Branchida) are waiting to deliver the predictions which are announced as a six verse poem (hexametric) – what does the future hold?

 

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