Ayvalık, which has a unique atmosphere in the north Aegean region, is ideal for a two-day getaway. Ayvalık is a district of Balıkesir, but small enough to be called a town. By visiting and staying at Cunda, a small island connected to Ayvalik, for a day, and visiting Ayvalık the next, you can see all that is needed.

Cunda

Originally it was a Greek settlement, but as with all Greek settlements in the Aegean Region, the fate of this place changed at the time of 1924 Population Exchange: Greeks here were settled in Greece, and Turks there were settled here.

However, Cunda and Ayvalık are the places in the Aegean that bear the most Greek traces. Both the home architecture of the Greeks was preserved and the Turks who came with the exchange brought many flavours from the cuisine of the region here. These two are the main elements of a Cunda tour: buildings and food.

Agios Yannis Church or Sevim and Necdet Kent Library Museum: You should see the windmills, the symbol of the island, and visit the Church of

Agios Yannis on the island’s summit. You can go up both on foot and by car, but walking is much more enjoyable.

The windmills and the church are in a reasonably small area. The church is open to visitors until 17.30 under the name of Sevim ve Necdet Kent Library. If you walk upstairs, the cafe in the museum garden will make you happy. You will also see windmills above, but only one has been restored. You can go to the top floor and see the views from here.

Taksiyarhis Church: This church, which has been standing since 1873, was restored in 2011 by the Koç family, the owner of Turkey’s leading holding company. It was opened to the public as a museum in 2014. As in other museums of Koç Holding, collections are exhibited in different areas such as the antique car collection and toy collections. Address: Namık Kemal, Rahmi M. Koç Museum (Taksiyarhis Church), Şeref Sk. No: 6/A, 10405 Ayvalık.

Tarihi Taş Kahve (Historical Stone House Cafe): The 150-year-old Taş Kahve, which is by the sea, is a neo-classical stone building with stained glass windows and a high ceiling with flying birds. It is a meeting point for everyone even today and has been used as a coffee house since its construction. Back in the day, before the exchange, there were two grand pianos here, and the people of Cunda used to dance there. The cafe is famous for its mastic Turkish coffee, Ayvalık toast, sage, melon ice cream, and Tulum cheese omelette for breakfast.

Ayışığı Manastırı (Moonlight Monastery): You need a lot of perseverance to get here as it is only reachable by vehicle, serviced by bad roads, and located in the farthest corner of Cunda. It is also only open on Tuesdays and Wednesdays until 15:00.

However, it was an important monastery dating back to the 16th century, and is one of the historical places left by the Greeks after the population exchange. Abandoned, then plundered by treasure hunters, it was bought in 2012 by Suzan Sabancı Dinçer, co-owner of Sabancı Holding, who restored the building to its original state and reopened it to visitors.

Despot’un Evi (Despot’s House): A mansion, built in 1862 by an Orthodox clergyman, nicknamed Despot, who lived on Cunda Island. The despot was killed by thieves in a raid on his home in 1877, and everything valuable looted. It was later bought by the Ottomans and served as a government building and, much later, a primary school and orphanage. Now restored, it is a stylish hotel.

Note for eating and drinking: Prices in Cunda are generally expensive. But while you’re here, you can’t go without tasting Cretan appetizers. I thought it would be better to give you a hint rather than suggesting the name of the restaurants: by visiting the restaurants, you can compare the appetizers and prices, and find out the fish prices in advance.

Places to visit in Ayvalık

Taksiyarhis Memorial Museum: Just like Cunda, the name of this church is Taksiyarhis. It is a common church name that abounds in Greece. Although it doesn’t look very special from the outside, you should see the inside. Its address is İsmetpaşa Mahallesi, Between, Marshal Fevzi Çakmak Cd. 11. Sk., 10400 Balikesir.

Clock Mosque: Another historical building that can be seen in the centre of Ayvalık. This is actually the Agios Yannis (Agia Ianni) Church, which was built by the Greeks in 1850, but after the population exchange, was converted into a mosque and the frescoes belonging to the Christian religion destroyed. When the bell tower of the church was turned into a clock tower, its name remained Saatli Mosque. The top of the bell tower was destroyed in the 1944 earthquake but later repaired.

Macaron District: You should pay a visit to this neighbourhood, which makes you feel that most Greeks once lived here. This place is what makes Ayvalık unique. You will also find many nice cafes and shops. The name Macaron is not pronounced like a French dessert, you need “g” sound instead “k”. The name comes from a flower in Greek and since Greeks adorned the balconies of their houses with this flower, the name of the neighbourhood remained.

Cafes in Macaron:

Macaron Muhallebicisi: You should go for the gummy and almond pudding. Hayrettinpasa, Barbaros Cd. no:108, 10400 Ayvalık/Balıkesir

Cafe Caramel: Ayvalık’s famous cafe with semolina dessert. It has two branches. The address in Macaron is Hayrettinpaşa, Barbaros Cd. 9. Sk. No 18/a, 10400 Ayvalık/Balıkesir

Mor Salkım: An ideal place for a lunch break with olive oil dishes. Hayrettinpasa, Barbaros Cd. No:112, 10400 Ayvalik/Balikesir

Pino: The healthy breakfast, artisanal pizza, sandwich and bagel spot.

Macaron Chocolate Coffee: You can go for delicious chocolate and coffee. Hayrettinpasa, Barbaros Cd. No:106, 10400 Ayvalık/Balıkesir.

Paleo: Cafe with delicious fresh desserts, and good coffee and tea alternatives. Zekibey, 13 Nisan Cd. No:51, 10400 Ayvalik/Balikesir

Şeytan Sofrası: This is Ayvalık Adalar Nature Park, one of the more famous places in Ayvalık. It is Turkey’s largest nature park, covering 19 of the 22 islands of   Ayvalık. It can be quite crowded in the evenings, especially for the sunsets, but it really deserves its reputation.