Former Didim resident and writer Inka Piegsa-Quischotte, reflects on an often overlooked local historical site.

LESS popular with tourists than nearby Ephesus, the ancient site of Miletos, equally important and brimming with historic monuments, can be visited in peace and leisure. 

Like many other places along the Aegean coast, Miletos has had a long and dramatic past, dominated by the influence of many cultures and rulers.

History of Ancient Milteos in Turkey

Traces of early settlements in Miletos date back to the Bronze Age. Around 1000BC, the Ionian Greeks expanded to Asia Minor and Miletos lived through its first period of wealth and importance.

The city was located at the mouth of the Meander River where it flew into the Aegean Sea and sported no less than five ports. 

That particular location was the source of influence and commerce which brought population, wealth and power to Miletos. The city became the biggest and richest of the 12 Ionion cities on the Aegean coast and created 90 colonies itself.

During the Greek period Miletos was home to such scientists and philosophers as Thales, Anaximander and Anaximedes. 

The gridlike layout of the city, devised by Hippodamos was a sensation at the time and became the “blueprint” for all Roman cities.

Around 500BC, the city was destroyed by the Persians but flourished again under Alexander the Great who defeated the Persians and restored the freedom of the city. It also became one of the most important Roman provinces in Asia Minor. 

Over the centuries, the ports however stilted due to the alluvium transported by the Meander River and thus the main source of commerce for Miletos disappeared. Selcuks and Ottomans subsequently ruled over Miletos, but few monuments bear witness to their presence today.

Location of Miletos and Directions to Get There
Miletos is situated approx. 30 km south of Soke It can best be reached by car coming from Soke, or else, from Didim, about 20 km to the south.

The approach from Didim is more enjoyable, as the road is secondary and leads through the picture-perfect little village of Akkoy with its rural every-day market, typical stone cottages and cobbled streets, where sheep have precedence over traffic.

Most Important Sights of Miletos
Approaching from Akkoy, the only remnant of the Ottoman Empire, the Mosque of Ilyas Bey, built in 1442, literally “swims” into view. The mosque with its unique overgrown dome is also known as the ‘Mosque of the 90 steps” and can be visited.

Following the mosque, the visitor is met by the view of the enormous amphitheatre which dates from Greek times but was expanded under the Romans to accommodate 15.000 spectators. 

Due to the fact that the site is not much visited, it’s easy to climb the tiers and enjoy the view from the top which gives an impression of the gridlike layout of the ancient city and the once flourishing ports.

The visitor can leisurely meander through the entire excavated site, but is well advised to mind his step as sheep favor the site as well and leave their droppings in the grass which covers the slopes and paths.

The whole atmosphere is one of peace and quiet and somehow conveys a feeling for the distant past, without the interruption, hustle and bustle of organised tours, their shouting and umbrella touting guides and honking tour buses. 

In addition there are only a few souvenir stalls and just two small places to sit, have a rest, a coffee and read up in one’s own guide book.